Dublin: Where the street is actually paved with Guinness |
He dropped us off outside our hostel, the Generator, and warned us to be careful: there was a big demonstration today in the city center. We tipped him and dropped our bags off and then wandered out into the city.
The first thing we came across was a large playground game in the middle of the street that essentially played like Bop-It. You remember Bop-it, from when you were a kid? Allison got her ass kicked, but I'll give her a break since she essentially woke up in a different country. We wandered a bit further, crossed the River Liffey and found ourselves at Ireland's oldest pub, the Brazen Head. It's been open since 1198. I have no idea why the beers haven't gone flat, but the staff was holding up well considering that this shift has been going on for 814 years.
Also home to Ireland's oldest drunk |
Inside there was already a good crowd. I suppose that makes sense, since it was a fairly rainy Saturday and any warmth was good warmth. A group of guys in their thirties were on their second or third round of Guinnesses, and a man who looked suspiciously like my uncle Mike was lilting at the top of his voice. You could still barely hear him over everyone else's laughter. We figured when in Rome drink like the Romans do, and thus began a three day affair with Guinness stout. Well, for me and Allison, anyway, Laura hates the stuff.
My first pint in Ireland. |
We finished the pints and headed out for a walking tour with some of Allison's friends from school, who were studying in London. We saw the town hall, the Castle, and the old viking artifacts, and Trinity College to name a few. Did you know that the Trinity College charter allows the Dean of the school (a position once held by Jonathan Swift) to shoot the Pope with a crossbow if he ever sets foot on Campus? Also, the Jedi library from the Star Wars prequels is modeled on their old library. Another thing we saw was about a dozen churches. It's true what they say; you can't throw a rock in Dublin without smashing a church window. There's cathedrals built by both the Guinness and Jameson families, and while we didn't sit mass there, we paid our homage to the two families with more direct worship.
A Church for what Ales you |
The next day, in fact, started at the old Jameson distillery, which was right around the corner from our hostel. Nothing like booze in walking distance. They've preserved the distillery and they walk you through the original process of making whiskey. Jameson's, and consequently most Irish whiskeys, are distilled three times, rather than two (Scotch Whisky) or one (American Whiskey). At the end, we volunteered to do a little taste test, but I still love the smokey taste that peat gives to Scottish Whisky. All the same, they made us official whiskey tasters. Well, they spelled my name Tommy Pears, but close enough, I figure.
The next thing I remember was trying to drive out the British government |
The next stop was the Museum of Irish Writers. This is housed in a mansion ironically owned by one of John Jameson's grandsons, and he lived in it while he oversaw the factory operations. We read all about Wilde, and Shaw, and Lady Gregory. I really loved the bits on Joyce, and I felt guilty for never having sat down to read Ulysses. I also realized I needed to catch up on my Irish theater, particularly in the way of Wilde and Shaw. Incidentally, on our way to the Guinness factory, we passed a homeless man who looked exactly like George Bernard Shaw. He waited for us to pass where he was sitting so he could throw an empty Jameson bottle (I don't know how he afforded this) into the street. Actually, someone should check and see if he's dead, that easily could have been him.
The next stop as I said was Guinness. This was beautiful. They've gutted the factory, although they still have a museum to show how everything once operated. Comically, there are five different pubs in the building, so we could've done a pub crawl without ever going outside. the view from the top is panoramic, although that is a bit useless when it rains all day and the sun sets at 4:30. Really, the city was as dark as a stout fresh from the tap, and it smells similarly.
If this is true I may live forever |
On our last day we did a lot of loose ends of tourism; saw the Molly Malone statue, walked through the Temple Bar district, got a final pint at the Brazen head and tried to fit a pub crawl into the space of about an hour and a half (total success, by the way). Our flight was early, and there wasn't really enough time to see all of the city. With Dublin, there's not enough time in your life to see everything. Still, I loved my time in the city of Writers and Rebels. Slainte.
Molly Malone: Not just the girl Calvin King and I sing about on March 17 |